Watches and Wonders 2022: 9 putting luxurious watches coming to the market this 12 months


Written by Alex Doak, CNNGeneva, Switzerland

After two years of pandemic-related disruption, the luxurious watch world descended on Geneva, Switzerland to confer on the most recent horological tendencies and most fun new timepieces on the annual Watches & Wonders commerce present.

With nearly each heavyweight model and CEO in attendance, the six-day occasion supplied an opportunity to take the heart beat of Swiss watchmaking, an trade that generated over $24 billion in exports in 2021 — not solely matching pre-pandemic ranges however up 2.7% on 2019, in keeping with the Federation of the Swiss Watch Trade.

Like many luxurious items sectors, watchmaking was affected by Covid-19 in quite a few methods, from boutique closures to stalled manufacturing within the Jura Mountains, the place a lot of the nation’s watch factories have been positioned for the reason that nineteenth century. However simply as they did within the Nineteen Eighties — when confronted with near-decimation by the hands of latest, cheaper quartz expertise from Asia — luxurious watches have confirmed their enduring, emotional enchantment by bouncing again briefly order.

The rebound could also be all the way down to rich consumers in search of tangible investments amid financial uncertainty and even discovering themselves with extra disposable money after months with out holidays and leisure. And having been staged nearly for the final two years, Watches & Wonders was out to capitalize on resurgent demand with an IRL truthful that welcomed over 22,000 guests.

And, boy, have been there some creations this 12 months — lots of which have been in improvement lengthy earlier than the pandemic however on show for the very first time.

All through each vaulted corridor of Watches & Wonders, which wrapped up final week, delegates delighted at vitrines showcasing a veritable rainbow of coloured timepieces, improvements in ceramic and titanium, jazzy interchangeable straps, a number of journey features and occasion-only stunners (we’re going out once more, in any case).

“It all the time seems to be a bit like the entire watch trade had a dialogue prematurely to agree on the key tendencies,” mentioned watch producer IWC’s CEO, Christoph Grainger-Herr, as he toured the historic model’s shipping-container pavilion. “Final 12 months there was an enormous presence of inexperienced. Publish-pandemic, we have seen fairly an outburst of shade in each single course, and I believe that there is a playfulness that is come again.”

“It is incredible to be again,” enthused Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-CEO of Chopard, from the edge of his personal gleaming, wood-paneled pavilion, “as a result of there’s nothing like displaying watches (and) jewellery items in actual time, to actual individuals… And that’s irreplaceable.”

Listed here are 10 of essentially the most eye-catching watches on show at this 12 months’s Watches & Wonders:

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5226G

Elements of Patek Philippe's Calatrava watch was inspired by antique objects like a time-worn camera case.

Components of Patek Philippe’s Calatrava watch was impressed by vintage objects like a time-worn digicam case. Credit score: Patek Phillippe

With Patek Philippe obsessives, of whom there are a lot of, abandoning hope of buying a not too long ago discontinued Nautilus Reference 5711 (in need of dropping an extortionate sum on the pre-owned market), there’s another choice. Cool and youthful, however simply basic sufficient, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Reference 5226G sports activities a refined case with a hobnail sample guillochéed across the whole circumference of the caseband. The charcoal-gray dial, which fades to black on the rim, has a grainy texture intentionally paying homage to vintage digicam circumstances.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Grasp II

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II has a lengthy waiting list to purchase.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Grasp II has a prolonged ready record to buy. Credit score: Rolex

There’s all the time a buzz round Rolex’s stand. Positive sufficient, Switzerland’s largest model (with an estimated 29% share of the nation’s watchmaking trade, in keeping with Morgan Stanley) shocked us all by not solely giving its GMT-Grasp II journey watch a brand new green-and-black ceramic bezel, however by repositioning its crown for left-handers. For such a longtime watch design — the primary to mix a 24-hour “house time” hand with a rotating bezel — the brand new configuration takes a psychological adjustment in addition to temporal one. However the result’s as good-looking as it’s nice worth. (If you may get on the ready record within the first place.)

Parmigiani Tonda PF Rattrapante GMT

The Parmigiani Tonda lets you see local and home time for those often traveling.

The Parmigiani Tonda permits you to see native and residential time for these typically touring. Credit score: Parmigiani Fleurier

Since Parmigiani Fleurier hit a bullseye with final 12 months’s dramatically nipped and tucked Tonda PF vary (like so many pandemic-era launches, it had been exhausting to foretell, not to mention gauge collectors’ curiosity), buzz across the Swiss watchmaker has been at fever pitch. This stunning new tackle the GMT traveler will additional bolster the model’s repute. Push the button at 8 o’clock to skip your “native” hours hand ahead or backwards as you enterprise via time zones, whereas a second gold-crafted hour hand retains you rooted to house.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

Cartier's line of "mystery" clocks began over 100 years ago.

Cartier’s line of “thriller” clocks started over 100 years in the past. Credit score: Cartier

This watch has been eight years within the making, which could appear odd given how little adorns the dial. It’s, nonetheless, the most recent in Cartier’s lengthy line of “thriller” clocks relationship again to 1912, when the French model debuted a clock face that appeared to drift in mid-air. Right here, six layers of sapphire glass help the palms and central winding rotor, which additionally homes the extremely (and essentially) shock-resistant motion that winds as you progress your arm. Actually, the one factor standard about this watch is the way it tells the time.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star

Wrist movement triggers the Jaeger-LeCoultre's Dazzling Star watch to release a shooting star across the dial.

Wrist motion triggers the Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Star watch to launch a taking pictures star throughout the dial. Credit score: Jaeger

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s MO is all about precision, so there have been loads of raised eyebrows on the model’s Watches & Surprise presentation because it described its newest mechanical innovation as reflecting the unpredictable, romantic nature of taking pictures stars. In spite of everything, how can exact watch mechanics be engineered to behave randomly? Properly, the agency actually delivered with this complication. Utilizing the kinetic energy equipped by the wearer’s every day (and unpredictable) wrist motion, a star arcs throughout the dial’s aventurine sky at arbitrary moments within the day. Jaeger-LeCoultre is maintaining the mechanics behind the feat a secret. However who needs info when you’ll be able to have magic?

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

The Vacheron watch harks back to the "sporty chic" trend of 1972.

The Vacheron watch harks again to the “sporty stylish” development of 1972. Credit score: Vacheron

It was Audemars Piguet that sparked the “sporty stylish” watch development in 1972, with its immortal, octagonal Royal Oak design pitched on the period’s burgeoning, disco-glitz jet set. Patek Philippe was subsequent, with its 1976 Nautilus vary providing its personal luxurious tackle metal. Vacheron Constantin adopted go well with the subsequent 12 months by rendering its built-in, geometric bracelet design completely in luscious gold, the “222” in its identify marking the watchmaker’s 222nd anniversary. Forty-five years on, and the unique Riviera blinger is again and as silky on the wrist as ever, bedecked with all the most recent mechanical tech.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Titanium

The Odysseus Titanium is made from strong, lightweight titanium.

The Odysseus Titanium is created from sturdy, light-weight titanium. Credit score: © Lange Uhren GmbH

Whereas Vacheron Constantin has introduced a ’70s legend again wholesale, its Richemont stablemate, A. Lange & Söhne, is as an alternative nurturing a brand-new tackle the built-in sporty-luxe style. Now in titanium, it is one thing nobody anticipated from Germany’s most venerable and conventional watchmaker — which is fairly the purpose. However that is no gimmick, both. Titanium is round 45% lighter than metal and considerably stronger, too, ranking 6 on the Mohs scale of hardness (the place diamond is 10 and metal is simply 4). Plus, a brand new ice-blue dial has been guillochéed by hand, yielding light arcs that convey newfound coherence to Lange’s Odysseus

vary.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Version “Lake Tahoe”

IWC's Pilot watch was inspired by the snowy mountains surrounding Lake Tahoe.

IWC’s Pilot watch was impressed by the snowy mountains surrounding Lake Tahoe. Credit score: IWC Schaffhausen

Simply over the border from Germany, within the Swiss city of Schaffhausen, IWC has been on the forefront of titanium watchmaking since 1980, when it collaborated with Porsche on a chronograph. This 12 months, it is collaborating with one other velocity service provider: the US Navy fighter teacher college made well-known by “High Gun” (and simply in time for Tom Cruise’s reprisal of his function as the brand new film’s titular “Maverick”). IWC’s new Pantone-registered frosty-white ceramic case was impressed by the snowy mountains surrounding Lake Tahoe, which the Nevada college’s trainee pilots fly over. However the design is unquestionably extra “Iceman” than “Maverick.”

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extremely

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo includes a laser-etched QR code which transports you to a unique NFT-version of the accessory.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo features a laser-etched QR code which transports you to a singular NFT-version of the accent. Credit score: Bulgari

Ten years is a blip in time for watchmaking, however that is how rapidly Elizabeth Taylor’s favourite Roman jeweler has managed to determine its monumental, 110-faceted Octo as a contemporary basic. It is also damaged an astounding eight world data for slimness. That is the most recent, which steals again the report for historical past’s thinnest-ever wristwatch from Piaget, by chopping issues again one other 0.2 millimeters to a diaphanous 1.8 millimeters (0.07 inches). The watch is little greater than its motion, with its case serving as baseplate and the palms sunk flush. There’s additionally a laser-etched QR code on the winding barrel — your moveable ticket to the watch’s distinctive NFT.

High picture: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222



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